Sunday, January 25, 2009

Wine Corner Review #45: Two Dragons Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

In this internet-ruled, computer-driven age, the wine connoisseur relys on a website to give him primary information about the tipple he tips. However, sometimes information online can be hard to come by, principally with vintners who source their grapes, that is, buy them already grown and ripened to produce their wine. Thus, since there is no vineyard, sometimes these producers have no website. In this case, one usually turns to sources such as Robert Parker or http://www.wine.com/ to glean info. Imagine my surprise when, for the first time in my reviewing career, Googling failed me completely, and I was unable to find anything about today's wine under consideration, the Two Dragons Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

The robe of the Two Dragons Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is rusted plum. The nose reveals red currant and dewberries. Lots of blackberries and rich, dark chocolate play sinfully upon the palate, resulting in an espresso finish. You can match this decadent delight with all matter of Greek food, particularly lamb gyros, and it should work well with game and hanger steak. Website is nonexistent, as stated above; if you can find one, then mister you're a better man than I. In any case, your local wine shoppe should be able to help you out and hopefully match you up with a bottle. Visit soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Quickie Review #38: GoGo Burger

Every small-town denizen in Texas has grown up with two beloved hamburger institutions: Whataburger and Dairy Queen. Both of these chains feature good, basic burgers in a down-home setting. GoGo Burger, the tiny shop started in Frisco Square by the same folks who brought you marvelous Mattitos Mexican Restaurant, does a pretty fair job of recreating the small-town burger taste in a decidedly upbeat setting, complete with loud, pumping music. The menu is equally basic: Cheeseburgers large and small, a veggie-burger featuring Portobello mushrooms, grilled chicken sandwich, fries, tater tots, milkshakes, grilled cheese and peanut butter and jelly sandwiches for kids, tea, softdrinks, and beer. That's it. Period. Always on the lookout for better burger options, my lovely wife the Rock Star and I drove down Main street one recent day for lunch.

Despite its address, GoGo Burger is actually located on a side street, just behind Mattitos. Blink and you might miss it. Inside, seating for only about 30-40 diners in a funky, retro setting. Step down the small hallway to the counter and order from the efficient attendant, who also handles busboy duties. Be advised that GoGo Burger advertises its burgers as "fully cooked," and make plans accordingly. Our Junior GoGo Burgers were indeed fully cooked, with only a slight touch of pink in the (probably) premade patty, and were rather tasty. I loved the crunch of the Wisconsin-cheese tater tots, and they were probably the highlight of our visit. My lovely bride cared for neither burger nor tater, declaring both were merely adequate and not worth a special visit. I'm inclined to agree, and while I enjoyed the Dairy Queen/Whataburger simplicity of the product, I feel we have better options closer to home. Still, if you are working in the area, and desire an uncomplicated place where you can take the kids, GoGo Burger might be right down your alley, so to speak. Website is http://www.gogoburgerusa.com/, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Monday, January 19, 2009

Wine Corner Review #44: Rutini Trumpeter Mendoza Malbec-Syrah

Louis Armstrong. Roy Hargrove. Dizzy Gillespie. Miles Davis. Great jazz trumpeters have made us laugh, cry, and sing with their instrumental prowess. Jazz, like wine, evokes the deepest of human emotions, bubbling up from wellsprings that may lay untouched for years. In 1885, Bodega La Rural was founded in Maipu, Mendoza, Argentina by Don Felipe Rutini, who proceeded to coax Italian passion out of the Argentine terroir. Over a century later, these vines have come to fruition in a blended wine starring the National Grape (it seems) of Argentina, the Rutini Trumpeter Mendoza Malbec-Syrah.

The robe of the Rutini Trumpeter Mendoza Malbec-Syrah is rich garnet, so fitting because it is indeed the birthstone for the month of January. The nose reveals plums, black cherry, and whisps of smoke. Lots of chocolate, currant, berries, and light spice on the palate, finishing with slight cloves. Wine Lover's Page (http://www.wineloverspage.com/) recommends juicy, grass-fed beef burgers as a pairing; we matched it with fusili pasta with meat sauce and it worked just fine. Unfortunately, I could find no website for Rutini, so you'll have to go to another source such as Wine Lover's Page or http://www.wine.com/ for information. Coax a bottle out of your local shopping establishment soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Sunday, January 18, 2009

FOOD CZAR REVIEW #40: ZORBA'S GREEK CAFE

Greece. Cradle of civilization. The land of Athens and Sparta, Zeus and Poseidon, Oedipus Rex and Antigone. The Iliad and The Odyssey, neither of which were written down in ancient times, but were instead memorized and retold time and again by wandering rhapsodes (storytellers) who traveled the land from sea to Aegean Sea. Yes, that Greece. Pretty impressive, huh? Well, if you think Greek history, culture, and mythology are incredible, just wait until you try their food. I was lucky growing up to know a most marvelous Greek family, whose Mama freely gave wise (and often hilarious) counsel, and whose Yaya (grandmother) baked fresh, homemade baklava for us on special occasions. Recently, my lovely wife The Rock Star and I realized that too much time had gone by without sampling the cuisine of The Hellenic Republic, and dutifully made our way to Zorba's Greek Cafe one recent Saturday eve.

ATMOSPHERE

When you walk in, it's just like stepping into a scene from the movie "My Big Fat Greek Wedding," or else a private house in Thessaloniki, take your pick. Lots of homey wooden chairs and tables covered with red checkered tablecloths. Lots of little dining rooms stitched together like so many tapestries. Lots of china, glassware, and photos crammed into every available nook and cranny. Plus, a fair sprinkling of Apollos and Aphrodites amongst the diners. (Let's face it, Greek people are very attractive. It must be all the fish and olive oil in their diet.) All that's needed to make you think you're in a neighborhood cafe near the Acropolis is a view of the Parthenon. We were seated immediately at a smallish two-top near the center of the action.

FOOD

First off, let me make it abundently clear that Zorba's is BYOB, and that those words should make your heart flutter. You see, if a place is Bring Your Own Bottle ($2.50 corkage, self-service, but they provide winged corkscrew and glassware), it cuts down significantly on your costs. We selected and brought a bottle of Genesis Washington State syrah, which proved a perfect companion for the evening's repast. Several appetizing-looking starters were listed, but if you truly love theatre (and I do), you will select the saganaki appetizer. Not only is the rather mild cheese served with chewy chips of tasty pita bread, it is flamed beforehand in a dazzling ceremony in which the waiter pours the combustable liquid atop, flicks his Bic, shouts "Opa," then quenches the flames by squeezing lemons over them, adding a citrusy sheen to the dish. Normally, my lovely wife and I love a little bit of everything when we dine, so we decided to split the Zorba's platter. We chose lamb for our souvlaki, and were rewarded with slightly charred, perfectly juicy Greek skewers, definitely the highlight of our meal. Tender gyros ranked a close second, and the long strands of luscious lamb were so flavorful I ate them sans pita and toppings. My bride loved the broiled sausage, declaring "The Germans have got nothing on the Greeks when it comes to sausage!" Quite a statement indeed. Pastiso proved a texturally-fascinating macaroni and cheese flan with meat. Honestly, that's the only way I can describe it, you'll have to try it yourself. Good Greek potatoes rounded out our platter, with enough food to dine heartily and take some home afterwards. On second thought, the Ek Mek dessert may well have been the high point: Ultrathin sheets of phyllo pastry drenched in honey and crowned with custard and whipped cream, like baklava on overdrive. With no more room in the inn, as it were, we soon took our satisfied leave.

SERVICE & WEBSITE

Yanni (the waiter, not the musician) proved both personable and adept, handling the flaming appetizer with dignified flair, and readily agreeing to our dessert choice. (Ek Mek is his personal favorite as well.) Website is http://www.zorbasplano.com/, and includes complete catering information and prices, useful with Super Bowl Sunday approaching.

OVERALL

You will feel like you've died and gone to Greece at Zorba's Greek Cafe. Enjoy their Mediterranean hospitality soon, and don't forget:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Monday, January 12, 2009

Wine Corner Review #43: Waterstone Winemaker's Select Claret

As a wine enthusiast, I like to soak up as much information about the vino as possible, where it was made, where the vineyard is located, the history of the winery and the winemakers, etc. That way, if I really like the wine, I can try other products from the same vineyard, and it's very exciting to discover a label that I've never tried before. Also, I really like the possibility of visiting the vineyard itself, as most vineyards are every bit as lovely as the wines they produce. So, you can imagine my frustration when I opened up my trusty Google in search of Waterstone vineyards. Oh, yes, there is a website with plenty of information, www.waterstonewines.com , but there is no vineyard, merely a tasting room in downtown Napa, CA. You see, the vintners at Waterstone source their grapes, which means they let other vineyards do the growing and processing, so there is no Waterstone vineyard per se to visit. While this fact may be disappointing, let me assure you that the wine itself is worth trying, particularly the Waterstone Winemaker's Select Claret.

The robe of the Waterstone Winemaker's Select Claret is Pepsi Cola blended with Delaware Punch, two sodas you may well remember from your youth. The nose is mocha spice, with touches of cloves. Lots of dark chocolate and more spice and cloves on the palate, finishing with muted pepper. Since this claret is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot (with perhaps some syrah?), it can be safely paired with all things beef, but is bold and delightful enough to stand on its own. Once again, the website is http://www.waterstonewines.com/, but strangely enough, I found no mention of the claret among their list of wines. In any case, soak up a bottle soon, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Sunday, January 11, 2009

FOOD CZAR ROAD TRIP 8, PART III: YOLO'S MEXICAN GRILL, PLANET HOLLYWOOD RESORT, LAS VEGAS, NEVADA

Planet Hollywood may be familiar to travelers in either one of its two incarnations. First, came the ill-fated restaurant chain in 1991, opened with the backing of famous Hollywood stars and modeled so closely on the Hard Rock formula that lawsuits soon ensued. Once boasting more than 100 locations, there are now fewer than 20 worldwide, including one in the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace. But like the Phoenix, Planet Hollywood has risen from the ashes of the Aladdin Hotel in the form of a state-of-the-art casino resort and pleasure palace. This incarnation seems much more thoughtfully put together than the previous one, and will hopefully attain success. Since my lovely wife the Rock Star and myself are pure born-and-bred Texans, we desire nothing more than to dine on some form of Mexican cuisine at least once a week, and noticing that Yolo's Mexican Grill was nearby, we proceeded to stroll down the strip one cold and rainy winter's day for lunch.

ATMOSPHERE

Restaurant designers, like many others, tend to follow trends, and Yolos copies the casual-sophisticate concept currently in vogue for most West Coast restaurants. Support columns with horizontal bars of light, a theme repeated throughout the entire casino. Festive colors, such as hot pinks, peaches, and stripes. The now-ubiquitious central bar. In fact, the whole restaurant comes across as one very contemporary South-of-the-border bar, and if you like bars (and we do), then you'll love Yolos design. We were seated and attended to almost immediately, always a plus in my book.

FOOD

When dining at Yolos, you must first realize that unlike in most Tex-Mex establishments, you must pay for your chips and salsa. In this case, it's worth it, for the chef will craft a trio of different sweet and savory salsas every day of the week. Accordingly, we began our repast with the salsa trio, which on this day featured a rather mild green creation which tasted of avocado, a medim-sweet number with peach overtones, and a full-on barrelhouse red with definite touches of habanero. Both of us agreed this latter sauce was the best, paticularly when joined with the escabeche (think hot pico de gallo) that was on the side. Scanning the menu, my wife and I noticed the Street Tacos and having enjoyed them so much at our hometown Taco Diner, decided to partake once again. She chose char-grilled chicken breast, served with really good, fresh corn tortillas (these days, they are almost an endangered species) and marinated with guajillo chile. My test of great street tacos is to take a couple of bites of the naked meat; if the meat can stand alone, it is a truly successful dish. Hers passed the test with flying colors, as did my pork carnitas tacos, braised in a broth of the same guajillo chile and onions. Of course, our entrees were served with rice and black beans, however the cilantro rice my wife was presented with was rather bland and lifeless. My Mexican rice was much more flavorful, tasting distinctly of pork, and the smoky black beans hit the spot as well. No dessert necessary.

SERVICE & WEBSITE

Service moved with relaxed briskness, a perfect pace for lunch, and managers stopped by to ensure all was well. Yolos web pages can be accessed through the Planet Hollywood site at
http://www.planethollywoodresort.com/.

OVERALL

Yolo's Mexican Grill is a shining dining example of the delights to be found inside the Planet Hollywood Resort. Next time you're in Vegas, discover your own planet, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Sunday, January 4, 2009

FOOD CZAR ROAD TRIP 8, CONTINUED: MON AMI GABI, LAS VEGAS, NEVADA

The Academie Culinaire de France award is traditionally given to French national chefs for their outstanding contributions to the culinary arts of France, so what does it tell you when a Spaniard snags this coveted honor? It means the chef, Gabino Soletino, really knows his foie gras and can be trusted to run a classic French bistro. When the Paris Hotel and Casino set up shop in Las Vegas about a decade ago, they turned to this James Beard Foundation honoree to run their Stripside (complete with views of the gorgeous Bellagio fountains) establishment, and to this day Gabi is still hard at work presenting his thoroughly unpretentious Francophilic fare to dozens of delighted gamblers daily. My lovely wife the Rock Star and I had first dined there on an earlier excursion several years ago, and decided to see if the quality held, so to speak. Accordingly, we made our way there late one evening.

ATMOSPHERE

First, please be advised that Mon Ami Gabi keeps later hours than most restaurants and is open until 11PM Sunday through Thursday and until Midnight Friday and Saturdays. Nocturnal revelers should definitely take advantage. Here, simple and elegant is the order of the day, not only for the food but also in the setting. White tablecloths with flowers for centerpieces. Basic, unadorned wooden chairs. Vintage signage listing such important details as the Plats Du Jour (Daily Specials). An inviting, thoroughly unaffected place to be introduced to the joys of bistro cooking. Despite the late hour (after 9PM), the joint was jumping, proof of Gabi's appeal to the after-show crowd.

FOOD

Despite our ravenous hunger, we decided to skip the starters. When the waiters at Mon Ami Gabi bring out one of their crusty bagettes with butter, trust me, you probably won't need any other appetizer. We didn't. And what goes better with bread than a delightful glass of (what else?) French wine? Here, we caught a break as they were out of our first choice and instead substituted a more expensive and (according to our waitress) better selection. The Carianne Domaine Grosset Cotes Du Rhone, a meritage of syrah, grenache, and mouverde, paired quite lovely with all our evening's cuisine. Steak Frites are a menu highlight, and as my lovely bride and myself are certified beef lovers, we were quick to indulge. French beef is all about the sauces, and the Steak Roquefort's rich, aged bleu cheese topping more than made up for the thinness of the sirloin. (I prefer my beef a bit thicker and rarer than the medium-done cut I was presented with.) My wife similarly enjoyed her Steak Bearnaise, another skinny top sirloin crowned with a tiara of that creamy concoction that has been the classic topping of beef for many decades. The wafer-thin frites put the French in French fries, giving good potato flavor while still allowing the beef to take center stage, and garlic spinach proved a pungent accompanist as well. Since the hour was late and we were already quite full, no dessert was necessary.

SERVICE & WEBSITE

Unstuffy and unaffected, the wait staff at Mon Ami Gabi was equally adept at handling a couple such as ourselves as taking care of the needs of the large party seated nearby. Website is http://www.monamigabi.com/, where you will lean that there are also locations in Chicagoland and Maryland, if you are so inclined.

OVERALL

What can we say? The quality of Mon Ami Gabi's bistro fare was every bit as good as we had remembered from our earlier visit. Discover if a Spaniard can cook French for yourself, and as always:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!

Thursday, January 1, 2009

Cellar Selection #4: Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne

What do chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier grapes have in common? As it turns out, they are the three grapes most commonly used to create champagne, the vintner's pride of the namesake region of France which by international treaty and law is the only appelation that can legally call its product by that term. All others should properly be called sparkling wine. (The USA has a loophole; this is a legal term derived from the Latin which loosely translates as "Our lawyers can beat up your lawyers." You think I'm kidding? Of course!) Look, rather than delve into all this folderol, why not throw a celebration instead, and what better way to celebrate than with some cellar-worthy champagne, such as the Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne?

The robe of the Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne is straw and hay gathered from the field during an ice-cold winter's dawn. (Which, of course, brings to mind the point that champange MUST be properly iced. Don't even think about serving it otherwise!) The nose is fresh, crisp apples with slight touches of truffles and gumballs. Delicious and Granny Smith apples beg for attention on the palate, also pears, and the finish is lemony apricot. Oysters and champagne are an ideal match (I'd love to try this quaff with Bijoux's East Coast Oysters, redolent of black pepper and horseradish), but any shellfish works wonders as well. Website is http://www.piper-heidsieck.com/, where you discover that pinot noir is the prime mover behind the flavor of this signature cuvee. Do some quasi-legal investigating yourself, and remember:

LIFE IS TOO SHORT FOR MEDIOCRE FOOD!!!